Maike van der Heide takes a wander through five regions and finds that besides sun, sea and Cognac, good property deals can still be found in this part of the country.

They live within walking distance from a Normandy town, yet are surrounded by sheep, cows and stunning views. The three-bedroom house occupies a half acre of land and it was the first property that Candice and Keith Walmsley viewed during their property search in Normandy. "We fell in love with it straight away, the weather was beautiful, the garden was in bloom with the apple trees bursting with apples", Candice recalls. None of the other properties compared, especially as the Walmsleys did not want anything that needed a lot of work, or was too far from town. "Hence the whole process of finding the property only took a couple of weeks and within three months the house was ours", says Candice. Besides the lifestyle, broadband was on the top of the list when the couple decided on a place to live. "I manage to run my business from home and my husband works from home too when he is not travelling", says Candice. And so the Walmsleys joined the thousands of Brits who have bought property in France, with a large chunk settling down into the north and west of the country.

While it may rain more than in the south and have a colder climate, this area of France is often the practical solution that Brits need to balance lifestyle with work. Undoubtedly, it would be nice if we could all spend our days on a hot Mediterranean beach or living in a chateau next to a vineyard. However, there are still jobs to think about, and often these jobs cannot be found in France – where wages are comparatively low. So instead, Brits are opting to experience the best of both worlds by finding that very happy medium in places like Normandy, Brittany, Poitou-Charentes, Nord-pas-de-Calais and Pays-de-la-Loire.

Not only are flights from Britain quick, cheap and frequent, ferries and trains are also scrambling to carry you across or under the water. The weather, of course, is a major factor: while the temperature is not significantly different to the south of England, estate agents have reported that many who settle in the northern regions later move south for the slightly milder weather. The sea is also a major attraction: while the north also has its share of beaches, the warm, sandy stretches of the Poitou-Charentes capture the imagination of many property buyers. Those same beachy areas, however, are also what capture their funds. Demand around coastal areas has pushed prices up so far that people are now attracted to the northern areas simply because they are more affordable.

There are pros and cons to each area, so lets look at them separately to see which one fits the French lifestyle you dream of.

Poitou-Charentes
This region is the furthest south of the areas covered in this article, and as far south as many Brits are going to get when moving to France. Although it may not have the Mediterranean climate or beaches of the far south, it really does encompass most things that Brits not only love but expect of France: unspoilt scenery, calm shores and and tranquil, rustic farms surrounded by sunflower fields. The region also enjoys a climate much warmer than its northern counterparts – averaging at 25 degrees celcius during summer – so those looking for sea and sun close to home will find this area suits them well.

Low-cost flights into Poitiers and La Rochelle have really opened this area up to both tourists and property buyers, but generally, this part of France enjoys a much slower pace of life than many other regions, says Rodney Marshall of Papillon Properties. "There is a lack of traffic, politer people and no 'keeping up with the Joneses'. In other words, it is less materialistic", he says. The region is made up of four departments: Charente-Maritime, Vienne, Deux-Sèvres and Charent. The area's proximity to Britain means it is often a more realistic lifestyle change, without paying the big bucks and with the option of continuing with one's employment in Britain.

There are only four medium-sized cities in the region: Poitiers, Angoulême, Niort and La Rochelle. While the lack of a major city may not be favourable to the region's economic development, this trait really appeals to many Brits. The horizon meanders without the rude interruption of factory and industry. The region is dotted with small, attractive market towns which are so appealing to property buyers that towns are even taking preference over coastal settlements. This is according to Alison Godfrey of Alba-Immobilier, who says that British buyers are going to town – literally. She says that popularity has moved away from the Atlantic coast, coming to rest instead near popular and attractive market towns towns such as Saintes. The attractions are not only the convenience of being close to town, but the picturesque settings and the property prices, which are considerably lower than on the coast. Godfrey has noticed that the rivers have also proved a pull factor for British buyers. Not surprisingly, Brits can pretty much be found everywhere, says Angie Moore, a member of the Granny Network based in Charente-Maritime. "Popular places include Saintes, St Jean d'Angely and St Savinien to name just a few. But so far we have no 'British ghettoes' and Brits are generally well-integrated".
 
Cognac, perhaps because of its name, is also particularly popular with British buyers. The towns are becoming more attractive as work is done to increase lighting in the streets and villages are put on main drainage systems, Moore adds. "British buyers are seeking out these pretty locations and investing in property while it is still relatively cheap", she says. The influx of Brits and other buyers, including rich Parisians looking for holiday homes, has generally pushed prices steadily skywards. Godfrey says most people buy properties within the 200,000 – 300,000 euro range, while Marshall quotes 130,000 to 180,000 euros. Moore, who is based in Charente-Maritime, says this is generally the most expensive area of the four. "The most popular price range is 150,000 to 200,000 euros.". What really gains Poitou-Charentes popularity points over the more northern regions is its climate, and Moore says her area is second only to the Côte d'Azur in the number of annual sunshine hours. "Although we have very cold spells in winter, the quality of life is a great improvement for most Brits", she says. Godfrey has also noticed that the climate makes the region one of the most attractive at the top of the five regions. "People who have bought in the north of France are moving down because they don't think it's warm enough up there." The Atlantic coast of Charente-Maritime has a favourable micro-climate and is noted for long hot summers and mild winters. It is only the inland regions that occasionally feel the sharp teeth of winter. Another positive factor which sways many Brits' decisions on where to move is the region's central location, says Godfrey. Not only is Poitou-Charentes handy to England, meaning family and friends are just across the water, but the rest of France, and beyond, is neatly arranged on three sides of you. "It's not just about going to England and back, it's Europe: people have retired and they can travel to places such as Spain quite easily."

Unfortunately for those hoping to find a relatively intact house for a cost which appears to be mere peanuts in the property world, those days are over. Godfrey says prices seen on television property shows do not reflect the current market. "It is useless for English people to watch programmes about property in France that were made two years ago, with prices from two years ago. For those prices you can't even buy a wreck any more." Indeed, prices in Poitou-Charentes have increased by 44 per cent over the last four years: 16 per cent in the last year alone, says Godfrey. Moore adds that in popular La Rochelle, prices have increased by a staggering 120 per cent in the last five years alone. The good news is that Marshall expects this fast uphill sprint to slow down slightly, but says it depends partly on the UK market. Moore, referring to the Charente-Maritime, also foresees a slowdown. "Prices should stabilise over the next 12 months, maybe with some adjustment downwards."

So what amount of coinage do you need to show up with nowadays to secure yourself your very own slice of France? For up to 50,000 euros, Moore says you can get a small barn with a plot of land for conversion. Marshall agrees this will only buy you "restoration projects or 'sheds'". They are also in agreement that for 51,000 to 100,000 euros you won't get much more than a house that requires complete renovation. But they say 101,000 to 150,000 will get you somewhere liveable, with only a bit of work needed, and with two to three bedrooms. Finally, 151,000 to 200,000 will buy you a renovated three to four-bedroom house with a decent sized garden, says Moore, and "maybe a barn or outbuilding to convert".

Brittany
If you want a conveniently placed home away from home, or want to move abroad without completely removing yourself from friends, family and familiarity, then Brittany wins hands-down. Even the weather is very similar to the British climate, which could either put you off or make you feel right at home. The area is connected to the UK by ferries at St Malo, Cherbourg and Roscoff as well Ouistreham in Normandy and several airlines flying into nearby La Rochelle.

Brittany has a population of just under three million people and is made up of four departments: Côtes-d'Armor, Finistère, Ille-et-Vilaine, and Morbihan. Not surprisingly, considering its position, rather English traits and shared Breton history, Brittany has long been popular with British property buyers. The coastline, of which Brittany has plenty: 25 per cent of France's entire coastline in all, with craggy granite rock formations in the west, small harbours in the north and sandy stretches to the south. St-Malo and Dinard are popular and therefore expensive patches.

As is the trend, the coastal areas are the most expensive areas, especially Quimper and Bénodet in Pays Bigouden. Coastal apartments are popping up like mushrooms and proving very popular, making the Morhiban Coast extremely popular with the French as well as Brits. Despite the inevitable price rises, however, the area is still nothing in cost compared to the Mediterranean. The inland region, Argoat, is even cheaper. The land is almost completely flat but quite fertile, supporting a small army of fruit and vegetable growers as well as thriving pork, milk and poultry industries.
 
The interior is covered in vast patches of forest and boasts many attractive natural features such as lakes and open ground for golf, water sports and other outdoor activities. Neil Harris of TJC Construction, which operates in south-east Brittany and the Loire Atlantic area, says there are plenty of areas, both established and up-and-coming, where Brits can not only buy property, but set up a means of making a living as well. "The main economic axis of Rennes, Redon, Nantes, Vannes and the whole coast of Brittany are the most active areas for business opportunities. There are good places to live, excellent road and rail connections and a dynamic economy compared to the centre of Brittany." "Property within easy access of the dynamic centres but which is still undervalued is a sound investment as these zones are expanding rapidly. We are still talking about country locations, not urban sprawl," says Harris.

The popularity of the area means prices are still on the up: as much as 25 per cent on existing buildings and 15 per cent on new builds during the last three years. Harris expects existing properties to increase in price another 20 per cent over the next three years, while land could go up by a staggering 80 per cent. "Buy a plot as soon as you can, even if you cannot build straight away. Building costs will not rise much, but land prices will."

So what can you buy in Brittany?
For those with the tightest of budgets, up to 50,000 euros, things are not looking good. There is "nothing worth having" for that kind of money, says Harris, talking about south-east Brittany, only "a small, badly-placed property in poor condition". Carole Traylor, Brittany Granny and surveyor, says properties for this money will only be those that need renovating, except "occasionally a tiny property with not much garden". But there are still bargains out there: "I currently have a three-storey town house on the books with a small garden in need of decoration and modernisation but habitable for just under 50,000 euros," says Traylor.

For up to 100,000 euros things start to look up, with Traylor insisting that the properties in this range are "a mixed bag" in terms of renovation needs. Harris says a new build would cost from 75,000 euros, with two-to four-bedrooms available for up to 150,000 euros "on modest-sized plots". In terms of existing property, Harris says that for under 100,000 euros you may find a few bargains, "either small or requiring lots of work. The less dynamic and interesting and the further from the coast, the greater the choice".

For up to 150,000 euros there is still a mixture of quality, says Traylor, but this could include "some modern neo-Breton houses and a few with house and income possibility". For up to 200,000 euros you can find yourself in a gite complex with home and income, she says. Harris adds that this amount will buy a "lovely new house built on a large plot. There is also a better choice of existing properties but the location is still limited for better places in this price band." Most overseas buyers, he says, part with 85,000 to 150,000 euros for a property. Traylor also says most buy properties for up to 150,000 euros.

What can put people off Brittany, especially when compared to a sun trap like Poitou-Charentes, is its weather. While the coastal climate is quite temperate, cool showers make a fairly common appearance. This is the most unfortunate similarity the area has to Britain: Brittany's rain and frequent wind will make any UK native feel right at home.

Normandy
Like Brittany, this area has long been a magnet for Brits wanting holiday homes or a second property for some other purpose. Its coastline, bustling with tourists and concentrations of Normandy locals, provides a lively contrast to the tranquil, scenic inland regions. Normandy is lush and green – the flipside of generous rainfall – with plenty of farm buildings, big plots of land, small lakes and even chateaux available. The Walmsleys bought their house on the outskirts of Vimoutiers, but within walking distance of the town. "We love living in the countryside and especially having nature around us. We are very happy that we did not go further from Paris as we find the two-hour trip more than enough", says Candice, who has a seven-month-old son.

Indeed, it is the quiet life that attracts Brits sick of the hustle and bustle of crowded towns at home. British expats Philip and Cherry Schatzberger love the surroundings of their new Normandy home, in Eure in the valley of the Risle Maritime. "The river runs by our house. It is beautiful wooded countryside, lots of valleys interspersed with flat farming land. We are situated in a valley between Pont Audemer, a quaint town with everything you need", says Cherry. "The timbered houses are just beautiful. You can't help but smile and feel happy when you pass them. Everyone who comes to visit say they feel very tranquil and relaxed and my theory is that this is because the buildings are so natural and in keeping with the countryside."

Philippa Weitz, managing director of PWT Normandy Life, says this idyllic lifestyle attracts those who are "looking for life as it was 50 years ago in the UK. After all, as we are fond of reminding our French friends, we are related and we have so much in common, from our flags to our countryside." Besides the lifestyle attractions, Weitz also points out that the area's house prices, a fraction of those in the south of France, are a real pull-factor: "but Normandy is catching up!"

Normandy is one of the easiest places to reach from Britain and, unsurprisingly, a virtual highway has been established between the two countries with ships arriving in Caen, Cherbourg-Octeville, Dieppe and Le Havre. Judy Mansfield, or 'Normandy Granny', says popular areas in this region include Manche, the Suisse Normande, Calvados, Deauville, Trouville and Honfleur.  Manche, she says is attractive because of its coastline and cheap property. "You're never more than 40 minutes from the sea, and also because prices are so much cheaper. The Suisse Normande's attraction lies in its scenery: rolling hills, lakes and rivers", Mansfield adds. And then there is Calvados which, of course, is a good choice for ease of access with ports and the Eurostar only two metro stops away: "even Calais is only two and a half hours from Calvados," says Mansfield. "People love the beautiful half-timbered cottages in this region, too", she adds. But also sought after are Orbec, Le Sap and the Pay-d'Auge to the south of Vimoutiers, Mansfield continues. "As the resorts on the coast become too expensive, people are searching further south. Another factor is the new A28 motorway, due to be completed next year, which will link Rouen to Alencon and will bring the south within easier reach of Brits and Parisians." Additionally, the closer you are to Britain, the more you will pay. This is because many people are choosing to commute between the two countries, whether it be by train, ferry or plane. There are even purpose-built settlements popping up near the French end of the Channel Tunnel so Brits can cut down on their commuting time.

But in spite of its popularity, Normandy still harbours secrets undiscovered by property-grabbing Brits, says Weitz. The area where Weitz is based, La Manche, is often called Le Département Perdue by the French, and she says it is not that well-known. "But it has a wonderful wealth of tourist attractions and hidden secrets such as the Marais (accessible from Carentan)." British-free spots are becoming increasingly rare throughout Normandy, but there are still bargains to be had. The Schatzbergers paid half a million pounds, including fees, for their timbered and thatched property 30 minutes from the port of Le Havre. While this may not sound like a bargain, for their money they got a gallaried and beamed indoor swimming pool and ten acres of land including a two-and-a-half-acre lake with all sorts of aquatic wildlife and three islands. The house has four bedrooms with "plenty of room for more if necessary", large rooms and a big kitchen. There is also an outbuilding currently used as a shed and stables, which the Schatzbergers say could be turned into a very nice house.  "In England the house would be well over £1 million. When we were looking at houses last year this was one of the most expensive on the market, but now there are more at a similar price but not with all our amenities, so hopefully we have made a good investment," says Cherry. They may well have struck it lucky, as prices nearly doubled between 2000 and 2003, says Weitz. However, in 2004 they remained fairly stable and Weitz does not expect this to change. "I have a feeling that they have reached their peak and may even drop a little as there are so many other markets opening up."
 
For under 50,000 euros, Weitz says you will only find 'wrecks' in Normandy, with not much better for under 100,0000 euros and then with another 100,000 euros of work to do. For under 150,000 you will find "habitable houses with quite a lot of work to do", says Weitz, and for between 151,000 to 200,000 there are "lovely houses with little work to do". Mansfield says that in Calvados, where she is based, 50,000 euros would get you half a hectare of building land with planning permission and water and electricity on site. If you have between 51,000 and 100,000 euros handy, you could buy a house for renovation in Calvados with 1,000m2 of land: for 101,000 to 150,000 euros you're looking at a "small timbered habitable house with redectoration, small gardens, some DIY needed", says Mansfield.

Up to 200,000 euros can buy a three-to four bedroom house in Calvados, with good sized gardens and with no work needed. Most of Mansfield's Normandy property buyers have around 200,000 euros to spend but there are still some who expect to view "loads of houses" for 100,000 euros. But Mansfield says that this amount is no longer that realistic. "Prices are continuing to rise, with sellers demanding more for their properties. Three years ago, a three-bedroom cottage with a new kitchen, an acre of meadow and five miles from the coast would have cost you about 98,000 euros. Today you would have to pay about 175,000 euros." Weitz agrees, saying those who want a decent property for under 50,000 are now wasting their time.

Sun sea wine...and the Loire
One of the most competitive property markets in France, the Pays-de-la-Loire has become a best-seller with an increasing number of British and French buyers alike. Not only is it the first region to the south where you will notice a milder climate, but vineyards abound in this agricultural area. Access from Britain and Paris is quick and easy, making it popular with city slickers and expats alike. The area used to be very popular with secondary-home buyers, but people have now caught on to the attractive lifestyle and the majority are now looking for primary homes. Accordingly, property prices in many areas of the Pays-de-la-Loire have risen by around twelve per cent per annum in recent years, above the French national average growth of around ten per cent. Hotspots include Pays-de-la-Loire's capital, the port of Nantes, and the popular costal areas of Vendée and Loire-Atlantique. Chinon and Loches are particularly popular among Brits. For under 50,000 euros you will be looking at a fairly derelict property, so a modernised three-bedroom house in a nice area will probably cost upwards of 150,000 euros. The top end of the market, including large manors on generous plots of land, cost about 400,000 euros.

There's nothing like the north
While it's not the place to be if you are intent on sitting in the sun for most of the year, the Nord-Pas-de-Calais has been the focus of property buyers from Britain for many years. There is plenty of countryside and coastline to enjoy, and while some may find the flat landscape a tad boring and the weather too much like that at home, this area is brilliant for commuters, especially as Lille has its own direct link to the Channel Tunnel. Property prices around Lille and Calais are among the highest in the region, as are those in Le Touquet. Cheaper alternatives lie in Etaples and generally further inland. Older houses are also cheaper.

John Hart of A House in France says prices have risen by about 30 per cent over the last three years, which is considerably lower than the ever-popular Brittany and Normandy. "The area could develop an entrepôt (market-based) trade if it had the will, but as there is no main town apart from Calais, it stagnates industrially and economically. Hence the cheap properties", explains Hart. However, Hart says you will still need more than 50,000 euros to land yourself a decent property here, and most buyers spend between 120,000 and 300,000 euros.

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For further information:
Alba-Immobilier
Normandy Life 
TJC Construction
Papillon Properties
Normandy Granny 
Charente-Maritime Granny 

Article first published in July 2005