Regional guides
Bas-Rhin in France is one to watch
A gloriously Gothic centre of history and commerce, Bas-Rhin is a fairytale setting of cathedral spires, riverfronts and timbered houses. Kate Baddeley finds out why Bas-Rhin is one to watch.
Tucked away in the north-eastern corner of France, the department of Bas-Rhin is not one often considered by Brits when choosing where to buy a property in France. Maybe this is because the department is best known for its association with the European Union. But plans to axe Strasbourg as an assembly seat of the European Parliament could actually be good news for Bas-Rhin. Plans have also been put forward to make the capital of Bas-Rhin and of the Alsace region in which Bas-Rhin sits, the site of a new European Institute of Technology, helping to boost the role of the city as an international centre of technology and learning. In addition, Strasbourg could be home to a new European Research Council or the venue for summits of EU heads of government. If put into place these plans will bring jobs, money, and new developments to the city.
The lack of British interest could also be due to Strasbourg, along with the rest of Alsace, having a more Germanic feel, rather than the French charm that is so sought after when buying in France. Situated at the very heart of western Europe, Strasbourg is in fact closer to Zurich in Switzerland and Frankfurt in Germany than Paris. The department's culture and architecture are a blend of the two great powers that regularly jostled for the territory throughout its long and intriguing history. The combination of influences makes for a culture and atmosphere as distinctive as any in France.
Strasbourg boasts all the amenities of other big cities culturally, economically and intellectually. But life here is a casual and laid-back affair when compared to Paris. The people are friendly, and the city still keeps alive its traditions. You will find medieval houses, great cathedrals, fine cooking and excellent local wines and beers. And leisure and cultural interests are well looked after too. For example, Strasbourg's classical music festival is internationally renowned.
The Cathedral of Notre-Dame lies at the centre of the Old City in an area bordered by the river Ill. In the oldest part of the city is la Petite France, a strikingly picturesque collection of medieval houses, which has now been restored. But the city is not just a picturesque tourist spot, it's also a densely populated industrial powerhouse. Strasbourg has a long history of higher education excellence, melding French and German intellectual traditions. Strasbourg is known to offer among the best university courses in France after Paris universities. The departmental capital is also home to numerous manufacturing plants producing chemicals, leather, metals, paper, plastics and textiles. Automobiles, electrical goods and foods and beverages are also manufactured in the city. The head offices of ten French banks are based in Strasbourg, which ranks, after Paris, among the greatest banking and financial centres in France alongside Lille and Lyon.
But what about the rest of the department? From the east to the northwest it is agricultural and spotted with densely populated villages. The Vosges Mountains in the northeast are heavily forested. To the north, the department is primarily commercial due to its excellent communications system of canals, roads and railroads. Bas-Rhin is divided into seven administrative arrondissements (districts): Haguenau, Molsheim, Saverne, Sélestat-Erstein, Strasbourg, Strasbourg-Campagne and Wissembourg.
At the foot of the Vosages in the valley of the Zorn, where the river runs into the Alsace Plain, lies Saverne; an attractive and popular town with the Marne-Rhine canal running through its centre. The canal also fills a useful marina, which is overlooked by the famous Rohan Palace in the centre of town. Today, Saverne is a place for boat lovers. In front of the towering Palace, the marina can hold 70 boats at any one time. Within the small town there are some fine old 17th-century houses, notably the impressive Maison Katz, a world-famous symbol of Alsatian architecture.
The peaceful atmosphere that pervades the town of Saverne today is somewhat at odds with its turbulent history. In the 16th century the town was the scene of a revolt by 20,000 of the region's peasants. The Duke of Lorraine and his troops managed to stamp out the revolt and promised to spare the peasants if they
surrendered themselves. Although the peasants did so, they were all killed regardless. The town of Wissembourg lies on the French / German border in the north of the department. The skyline is dominated by a number of charming spires and towers. The church of St-Pierre et St-Paul has two enormous towers, which offer superb views over the surrounding countryside. Close to the church is a bridge over the river Lauter from which the Bruche Quarter, a higgledy-piggledy collection of medieval homes and workshops, can be seen.
Located 25 kilometres south west of Strasbourg, where the little valley of the Ehn river opens out, appears the picture-postcard town of Obernai. A condensed version of Alsace, it is the most visited city of the Bas Rhin after Strasbourg. Although this shouldn't put you off as the town is just big enough to absorb the crowds. So, what about property prices and availability? In Strasbourg rental property is highly sought after, as the city is popular with
businessmen, students and tourists. Bear in mind, however, that the property prices are considerably higher there than in much of the rest of France precisely because of its European connections.
Bas-Rhin has a thriving property market, with prices continually rising and demand exceeding supply. There is great buy-to-let investment potential as the constant flow of European workers ensures future profit from sales. Apartments are currently averaging 2,250 euros per square metre (April 2006, source: FNAIM) in Strasbourg, but this is likely to increase even more in the next year.In 2007 Strasbourg is preparing to welcome the TGV, which will make it possible to reach Paris in just over two hours. This accessibilty and convenience is bound to make British property-seekers sit up and take notice of this distinguished department, steeped in history. After all, where else in France can you enjoy sauerkraut and sausage, washed down with a crisp glass of Riesling? Alsace residents also share the German penchant for beer. But despite the kaffee and kuchen culture, whatever you do don't call them Germans!
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Article first published in May 2006


