Regional guides
Brittany and Normandy as popular as ever
Both regions are steeped in history, home to fine regional cuisines and have diverse landscapes. The only problem is how to decide between them! Kate Baddeley takes a look at the two ever popular destinations.
North-west France is a place where perfect summer holidays are spent, a place where the British bring their children to enjoy the vast stretches of sandy beaches and all the kids need is a bucket and spade to keep them entertained for hours, while the parents enjoy the divine local produce, dining out on seafood and soft creamy fromages all washed down with a hefty slug of calvados or cider.
Then there are the endless historical attractions: the wonders of the D-Day landing beaches, the Bayeaux tapestry, and the simple pleasures of exploring the cobbled streets of the many historical towns. Or for those that want to get back to nature there's the acres and acres of rural countryside – the perfect stomping ground for those long walks or bike rides.
Clearly north-west France has all the ingredients needed to make it a holiday favourite. No wonder, then, that it is a long-time desired location for British house hunters who want to enjoy these attractions all year round. Both Normandy and Brittany enable Brits to sample the French way of life whilst only being a short hop across the channel from the UK. Bear in mind though, that while the weather is a few degrees warmer it is just as unpredictable as in the UK.
So if you've decided you want a picture-perfect stone cottage in north-west France how do you decide between the two popular regions of Brittany and Normandy? Although similar on the surface, you don't have to delve too deeply to find that each has its own unique character.
Normandy Regions
Normandy (actually two regions: Upper Normandy and Lower Normandy) is a large and diverse region with five departments that range enormously from the lush rolling pastures of Orne to the water lovers' haven of Manche, surrounded by ports and beaches and home to the spectacular gothic monastry of Mont St Michel. According to Pippa Weitz of PWT Normandy Life, the three most westerly departments, La Manche, Orne and Calvados, are the most popular departments with Brits for a variety of reasons. "I was born and bred in Dorset, and as I look out of my window over the valley I could be in any part of Dorset or Devon, so in part, the reason they are popular with many Brits is because they feel 'at home' geographically", explains Weitz, who now lives in La Manche.
La Manche is situated in the Norman peninsula, dotted with charming fishing villages. Weitz explains exactly what it has to offer househunters, "We are utterly spoilt for choice. In La Manche alone we have Mont St Michel, Le Marais (no one has ever heard of this but it is fantastic if you like wildlife and water, it's rather like the Norfolk Broads), miles and miles of sandy beaches, Chausey – yes, the French have some Channel Islands too – and all this is just what's based within La Manche, the other departments have extraordinary delights too", Weitz continues. "Every week there are concerts, walks, cycling competitions, hill climbs, horse riding and of course there is the walks across the bay of Mont St Michel, Cité de la Mer at Cherbourg, the D-Day beaches and the museums to accompany them, the zoo at Champrépus, countless car boot sales (vide-greniers), the Christian Dior Museum, Clock, Norman Furniture and Bell Foundry museums at VIlledieu. And all this is just for starters."
Calvados is the department best known to British tourists and one that offers great variety within its borders. The department has a long coastline with numerous beaches which were the landing beaches of the Allied troops in 1944 and there are many museums and cemeteries to mark this. Inland the landscape changes to the rolling green countryside that produces the spirit of the same name, amongst other produce. Maureen James, the Lower Normandy and Mayenne representative of the Granny Network, has lived in the other popular department with British buyers, Orne, for over two years. Orne is the least touristy of all the departments and is best known for its meadows, orchards, half-timbered houses, and traditional farmhouses. The area is popular with wealthy Parisians who want a château in the country. While many people will head for the lively Normandy coast, the Norman countryside, with its golden prairies, cool wooded valleys and beech and pine forests, remain a haven of peace and tranquillity. James explains why she loves living in Orne: "We enjoy a wonderful lifestyle, with many friends, both French and British. Our lifestyle is much more relaxed, and we enjoy good food and wines at sensible prices. We are surrounded by the most rolling wonderful countryside and quiet roads. The shops are closed on Sundays. Not forgetting, of course, the cheeses, Camembert, Pont L'Eveque, the brioches, the cider, the poire (pear cider) and the wonderful calvados."
Gastronomy is another good reason to come to Orne with creams, apple and pear brandy, cider and soft cheeses such as Camembert all being produced there. "There are wonderful restaurants for lunches and evening meals – whether they are on the coast for oysters or moules or in the towns and villages further inland. The quality of the food served is excellent", says James. So, what about the all-important weather? The general consensus is that while it is similar to the south coast of the UK it's generally warmer by a few degrees.
Many Brits appreciate the fact that the weather is seasonal. "We have snow in winter, leaves fall from the trees later in October, the daffs bloom in March and we have warm summers with a little rainfall – which keeps everywhere lush and green and means we don't suffer water shortages", says James.
Brittany Region
Brittany, 'la Bretagne', is the most westerly region of France. Bordered by the English Channel on the north coasts and by the Atlantic Ocean on the south and west coasts, Brittany is often said to have something for everyone. Its coastline is long and varied and consists of spectacular sandy beaches, rocky cliffs, coves and tiny ports. Benefiting from the pounding Atlantic winds, Brittany is a paradise for water sports enthusiasts, while history lovers could spend day after day exploring the many medieval churches, castle and abbies that tell Brittany's fascinating history.
Bob Pearson of Breton Homes explains Brittany's appeal as follows: "Where to start! You are only ever an hour from beautiful seaside, the weather is very temperate, the countryside is beautiful and many areas are only lightly farmed. There is lots of woodland and tourist attractions for those who love history, architecture and nature. All this alongside the fact that we have very low crime rates, very low insurance costs and property taxes, have easy access to the UK, friendly people, polite children, properties are affordable, excellent and quiet road network and not to mention the great food and drink, makes Brittany a great place."
Pearson enthuses that Brittany's attractions are obvious and while there are plenty of tranquil areas of natural beauty, such as the the Blavet valley, Huelgoat with its incredible 'vallée du chaos', or the bay at Brest to name but a few ensure you are certainly never stuck for entertainment. "There is everything you would expect with lots of
outdoor centres for horse riding, canoeing / kayaking, sailing and watersports, golf, the British film festival at Dinard the massive Interceltique festival at Lorient and the jazz festival at Vannes".
While the whole of Brittany is popular with British buyers the central area of Brittany has experienced a particular influx of British families relocating in recent months, and Bob believes that the towns of Plemet and Lambelle in the department of Côtes d'Armor are areas worth investing in. Côtes d'Armor boasts long sandy beaches, acres of forest and a nature reserve. The chic town of Dinard, also in Côtes d'Armor, is another popular choice with Brits – albeit slightly wealthier ones. Often called the 'Nice of the North' – which probably has something to do with the casinos and regattas – the coast has a succession of pretty bays and golden sandy beaches.
The department of Finistère is also well liked by British buyers, probably because the department has more coastline than any other in mainland France and there are still some property bargains to be found. One of the highlights of summer in Finistère is the 'Festival des Vieilles Charrues' held in Carhaix-Plouguer where major international stars attract tens of thousands of spectators. Large towns in the department include Quimper, the department's administrative centre, and Morlaix, a bustling marina town. Gently warmed by the Gulf Stream, Brittany's climate is very mild, winter temperatures seldom fall below freezing and snow is a rarity, and spring and summer are normally warm and sunny. "The climate is temperate", explains Pearson. "The rainfall is of course higher or lower depending on location. Around the coast temperatures remain mild and it rains less than inland. Contrary to popular belief, the annual rainfall is not what is significant about Brittany's weather but rather its changeability – periods of showers may be followed within a few hours by clear, bright skies with high clouds." Most Brits prefer the pleasant climate to other popular areas like the Dordogne and Poitou–Charentes which are very cold in winter and very hot in the summer.
Cost comparison
So if both regions sound appealing, maybe comparing the cost of property in the two regions might help you choose between the two? Or maybe not. While recent market reports show that Brittany's average property price is slightly higher than Normandy's, this isn't all that helpful as prices within the regions vary greatly and there is a huge variety of property on offer.
In both Normandy and Brittany properties on the coast and/or those with a sea view usually command a premium price, while property away from the coast is generally better value. "There are still properties to be purchased at sensible prices in Normandy", says James. "Whether you are looking for a modest little holiday home to a château or large property to run as a gîte/chambre d'hote". James continues, "House prices seem to have increased over the past two years but are still very competitive and you certainly get excellent value for money. It is always difficult to give an average house price, the house styles vary so much in this area. There are many properties in the 160,000–300,000 euros range that would make fabulous family homes, but the days of buying something for next to nothing have all but gone."
House prices in Normandy may have also increased but they are still a lot cheaper than those in many other coastal regions of France. Weitz provides some useful examples of what you can get for your money: "I have been helping two couples who are looking for a house together, their budget is between 200,000 and 300,000 euros – we have been looking at large houses with four to six bedrooms, with two to three living rooms, outbuildings and land, all in fairly good to excellent condition." Weitz gives another example at the other end of the scale, "Julie and Peter spent yesterday afternoon looking at houses under 100,000 euros – they have about 150,000 euros to spend buying and doing the house up. They want to set up a Bed and Breakfast. Having looked at a couple of rather unpromising houses we found ourselves in a property in Beauchamps, between Villdieu and Granville. The house was ideal for a Bed and Breakfast, and it is around 160,000 euros including the agent's fees."
Like in Normandy, the influx of British buyers has led house prices in Brittany to increase over the last few years. "Under pressure from many nationalities, the French themselves, and an increase in the number of companies locating to Brittany, prices have seen a steady, and in my opinion, sustainable rise of around 10 per cent a year. Brittany is very popular and is Europe's largest tourist destination, bringing many buyers of second homes. There is also an increasing trend for Brits to retire here." Likewise, in Normandy prices and properties vary dramatically as Pearson explains, "While prices can start at 10,000 euros for a renovation project, average prices for something habitable and family-sized in central Brittany are around 120,000 euros, with a good selection at 150,000 euros plus. Properties within 15 minutes of the coast command a large premium."
Getting there
Both Normandy and Brittany are well-served by sea, road and rail connections, providing both regions with easy access from the UK. "Normandy is ideally placed for getting back and forth to the UK. It is between one and a half and five hours from the Tunnel crossing, and some of the 'no frills' ferries and also served by Caen, Cherbourg, Dieppe and Le Havre ferry ports", says James. "Additionally, the ferry port at St Malo is within easy striking reach of the region as is the airport at Dinard where flights arrive from East Midlands, Stansted and Luton. You can also get to Paris in approximately two and a half hours", adds James.
Bob points out how easy it is to get back and forth from the UK to Brittany: "There is a choice of ferry routes and also many air routes to the UK and Ireland including a new Manchester to Nantes flight announced in the last few days." There are several direct flights to Brittany from a variety of UK airports and numerous flights to Paris, and within Brittany are the ferry ports of Roscoff and St Malo.
Conclusion
So which region takes your fancy? They are, after all, similar in many ways: both regions are ideally situated for Brits who want easy access to the UK and both regions are pretty good value when you compare them to other coastal regions in France and take into consideration the host of natural attractions on your doorstep. Where they differ is that each region has a unique character and culture, defined by their individual histories, distinctive produce, and the people that inhabit the towns and villages. These differences are had to sum up in words but are easily apparent to anybody who has visited both regions. "Buying in Normandy is not for those who just want a cheaper home, but is also a marvellous new way of life, with welcoming French neighbours and friends", explains Weitz. She continues, "My neighbour Thierry, whose French writing skills are not great as a French farmer, when he first had English neighbours, went out and bought and English-French dictionary". Pearson, of course, disagrees, "The weather is cooler and wetter in Normandy. I love it here in Brittany!" Perhaps it's time to take a look for yourself?
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For further information:
PWT/Normandy Life
The Granny Network
Breton Homes
Read other articles about France:
French leaseback property excites investors
Poitou Charentes: not only for the rich
Tarn et Garonne in France is very appealing
Article first published in July 2006


