Places like Alicante and Malaga are the typical Spanish experience most holidaymakers are likely to have had. But, if you are looking to live permanently in Spain, travelling a little further afield could lead you to places that are much less exploited than the costas, with more authentic Spanish living and exactly the same good weather and laid-back attitude. Slowly, people are also starting to catch on to the investment sense of seeking out the next hot spot as opposed to flocking to areas already colonised by Brits. On the whole, and for the first time in many years, in 2005 mainland properties and properties on the north west coast sold at higher average prices than properties on the Mediterranean coast. It's difficult to group mainland Spain, encompassing places like Madrid and Granada, together with the eleven island provincias. The people and their cultures have both striking similarities and subtle differences, while the landscape and architecture are  varied, so there's really something that will appeal to every taste.

Madrid
A number of British homebuyers bypass Spain's capital city; the overtly Spanish population can be off-putting to some, while a lack of coastline is a definite drawback. However, not everyone is looking for sea views and slowing down when they head off to Spain. Madrid has a slightly more mellow feel than its more frantic coastal rival, Barcelona, but it still has all the energy and pace of an affluent city, full of well dressed, young Spaniards enjoying café condensada and tapas in the afternoon shade. There are about three million people in the urban area of Madrid, the most populous city in the country, spread over about five square kilometres. This makes it busy and vibrant, without seeming cramped or overcrowded. The various occupations in its history, from Moorish to Fascist, have left an indelible mark on the city's skyline. But a historical relic Madrid is definitely not: following the end of Fransisco Franco's dictatorship in 1975, signs of Madrid's rebirth into the realms of modern chic are everywhere, especially in the Malasaña and Chueca areas. The Gran Via ('Great way') is dripping with designer labels and has some of the best, and most expensive, nightclubs in the city. While not as outrageously priced as London, Madrid does have the highest average property prices in Spain. Expect to pay roughly 2,800 euros per square metre of property.

House prices all over Madrid have risen by a respectable 10 per cent in 2005, and while there is some slowing to the price rise expected in the coming year, all signs point to continued growth. Puente de Vallecas and Villa de Allecas are two areas that could offer a good return on investment. Property prices there rose by around 14 per cent in 2005.

GRANADA
Francisco de Icaza, a Mexican poet, once said there could be nothing more tragic than being blind in Granada. And the Andalucian capital is without doubt one of the most romantic and atmospheric cities in Spain, if not the whole of Europe. Set at the foot of the Sierra Nevada mountains, at the confluence of the Darro and Genil rivers, the exotic Moorish influence in citadels such as Alhambra and El Albaicín really enhances the natural setting. The prestigious university in Granada draws students from all over the world, and keeps the city from becoming too touristy. There are only 860,000 residents in Granada, yet despite its relative proximity to the coast and the popularity of Andalucia as a region, the cost of property in Granada still averages 1,200 euros a square metre.

CORDOBA
Another Andalucian gem, Córdoba is a Spanish city that rolls along at its own gentle pace. The mosques, cathedrals and the region's only synagogue provide a visual history of the city, as well as imbuing it with a depth of character and colour that makes any walk around the centre a real pleasure. Córdoba may be perfect for people wanting to sit back and enjoy the local scenery, but socialites may struggle to fill their calendar. There are, however ample local tapas bars in which you can watch the world drift by.

BADAJOZ
You probably haven't heard of this city near the Spanish-Portuguese border, even though it's the capital city of the largest Spanish province, also called Badajoz, and has a population of about 670,000, there is virtually no expat population. With some of the lowest property prices in the country, currently at around just 870 euros a square metre, this has to be a future hot spot. Badajoz has the feel of an ambling rustic village intertwined with Arabic influenced architecture set on the banks of the Guadiana River, though the pulse that beats beneath the surface is typically Spanish in its gusto. Being so close to Portugal offers exciting travel possibilities, Badajoz is a short drive to Elvas in central Portugal and there is a domestic airport 14 kilometres from the city with regular flights to Madrid.

IBIZA
We all have preconceptions about Ibiza. The Mediterranean island has a notorious reputation as a serious party island. Some of the biggest names in clubbing can be found there, and it's touted by travel agents as the ultimate 18–30 holiday destination. But the negative connotations Ibiza has gained are not entirely justified. It's not teeming all over with drugs and drunken ravers. Most of Ibiza is the polar opposite to Ibiza Town, where the majority of the clubs and bars catering to tourists are found. For a complete change of pace, try Es Canar, on the east coast. A fishing village built round a bay with weekly 'hippy market'. Ibiza contrasts most strikingly with Formentera, a tiny island to the south full of small rural towns where traditional dress and farming are still common. Spanish is essential if you decide to settle on Formentera, but the people are some of the warmest and most open you'll meet in the Balearics.

MAJORCA
Whether you spell it Majorca or Mallorca, this island, the largest in the Balearics, is primarily known as a family holiday spot. It's a two-hour flight from the UK, and while it remains popular, the island is one of the few Spanish areas popular with British tourists and expats that hasn't become overwhelmed with tacky tourist shops and resorts. At the end of 2004 British residents made up 4 per cent of the island's 640,000 population, roughly 25,600 people in total. About half the island's entire population lives in the capital, Palma de Mallorca, a large port city that is full of sand-coloured buildings both old and new, and residential buildings in keeping with the island's architectural style and centuries-old traditions. But just when you thought you might have discovered a tourist island that had managed to escape stacks of straw donkeys, Irish theme bars and aggressive holiday reps trying to get you to eat or drink somewhere, you find yourself in Magaluf. Even for the  modern, commercialised tourist industry, Magaluf redefines crass. The average property prices for the Balarics is about 2,000 euros per square metre, and most places in Majorca are at the upper end of the scale.

MENORCA
Like Majorca, this island is already a popular spot for Brits. Known as the 'Windy Island', it has a largely untouched interior, as most of the towns and villages are coastal. There are approximately 26,000 residents of the capital, Ciutadella, all living in the sprawling ancient streets running of the Contramurada, the main street at its heart. The island's north is a departure from the dusty south: it's wild and green, covered with pine trees.

The short distance from Playa de Fornells to Addaia has been developed by tourist resorts, but the rest of the north is made up of small enclaves of fishing villages and rural communities, perfect for relaxed living where people still have real community spirit.

LANZAROTE
This island is probably the star of  the Canary island's approach to sustainable, environmentally friendly tourism. Buildings are required by law to be under two storeys, and must be painted white. This lends a tranquil, soothing quality lost on some of the other Canary Islands, where modern high-rises and huge billboards proliferate. The intense browns and yellows of the crater-marked land are broken only by the explosion of colour found in native plants. So otherworldly are parts of Lanzarote, it was used as a setting in the original filming of Planet of the Apes. Puerto del Carmen, on the south of the island, is home to the 'strip' as locals know it, or Avenida de las Americas to give it its proper name, where the majority of restaurants and the tourist clubs are located. Puerto Viejo ('Old Port'), is slightly more Spanish, with a good-sized marble plaza where children run round playing futbal sala and elderly Spanish men play at bolas (similar to bowls) in the evening. The capital, Arrecife, is a mixed collection of small, bizarre shops and a few big brands, though driving there can be a nightmare. Costa Teguise, further north, has an 18-hole golf course, and is near the weekly craft market, but some consider it a tad soulless compared to vivacious, small villages like Guatiza in the north or Playa Blanca on the south coast.

TENERIFE
The capital, Santa Cruz, has the second-largest population of the Canary Islands. Unquestionably, the hub of Santa Cruz is La Plaza de España by the seafront, where the Cabildo ('council') of Tenerife is located. While Puerto de la Cruz is a tourist trap, other places in Tenerife can offer a surprisingly unfettered living experience. Los Realejos is a city of about 32,000 that looks up to the Las Cañadas del Teide mountain range, and sits amidst banana plantations and black sand beaches. Puerto de la Cruz is gradually encroaching into the area, so there's a good chance property prices will rise. Currently the average property price in all the Canary Islands is around 1,600 euros.

GRAN CANARIA
Compared to some of the other islands, especially Lanzarote, this island has an exceedingly lush and green natural environment. Like the other islands, it has a volcanic origin (though only Tenerife's Mount Teide is active) but now it's the nightlife that is prone to frequent explosions. Colourful Playa del Inglés is the perfect place to go out and have some hassle-free fun. Spanish clubs and English bars are packed out in the evenings, and even the most-tourist oriented places retain their Spanish flavour. The capital, Las Palmas, with a population of about 353,000, is the mish-mash of styles and architecture that either creates a colourful, unique living space or is a complete assault on the senses, depending on your outlook.

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Article first published in April 2006