We rosbifs are a timid bunch really. Despite wanting to move away from the UK, we inevitably end up searching in areas like Provence or Brittany which, while full of French atmosphere, also happen to be significantly colonised by Brits. So what could tempt those looking to live in France away from the tried and tested areas and towards a real Gallic adventure? Tarn et Garonne of course!

If anywhere can contend with the better known departments, Tarn et Garonne has to be in the top five of undiscovered French gems. The cliché checklist fills out nicely: rolling green landscapes? Check. Quaint countryside villages? Check. Bustling capital steeped in historic buildings and authentic French joi de vivre? Check. Apart from a lively pub restaurant Le Scottish in the north eastern town of Caussade, there really isn't much of a British presence in the region. For Francophiles and those seeking a genuine French lifestyle, this is exactly the attraction.

Tarn et Garonne instantly pricks the senses and envelopes you in a tranquil yet playful charm that permeates all aspects of life. It's all about easy living, indulgence and plenty of things to do should you ever wish to burn off some calories from the rich cuisine on offer. But, as always, for anyone planning on living abroad, it's a case of keeping your head while following your heart. Idyllic strolls by the Garonne River that winds through the west of Tarn et Garonne and dinner parties filled with good local wine are all very well, but what about the hard facts that decide whether you'll ever stay for more than a holiday? Tarn et Garonne is situated in the south west of France, in the Midi-Pyrénées region. It's the 82nd Department, wedged between Lot et Garonne, Lot, Averyron, Gers, Haute-Garonne and Tarn. The department of Tarn et Garonne is one of the smallest in France in terms of the number of people living there, while other areas in the Midi-Pyrénées, like Toulouse, have a larger, more urbanised population. Overall, though, the entire Midi-Pyrénées region, roughly 46,000 square kilometres, has only two million people.

The agricultural industry still thrives in this part of France, and much of it in Tarn et Garonne is small, non-intensive farming that still involves much of the community. In the riverside town of Castelsarrasin, for example, the marché au gras, where the local geese are herded through the streets, still takes place every year. The local produce in Tarn et Garonne is tasty and invariably fresh, and there's something quite fulfilling about choosing aromatic vegetables and cheese in the ancient town square on a sunny afternoon. The department's 'out of the way' label might sound like a dubious euphemism for rural villages with more sheep than people and dirt roads that lead nowhere, but Montauban, the capital, is well connected via Autoroutes that run directly to surrounding regions. For a stress-free journey into and around Tarn et Garonne, there's also an extremely efficient railway network. Not that the department doesn't have everything you'll need already in it. The abbeys and art galleries dominate the skyline of the main towns of Montauban and Moissac and mean the department stores and abundance of locally owned businesess have to blend in with the 18th-century and medieval architecture.  Sarah Francis, an agent specialising in the region with her real estate company, Sifex, believes the area has a lot going for it. "The backdrop of the Pyrenees, the Canal du Midi and the many soft pink rosy brick houses found in Tarn et Garonne lend a certain sunny warmth to the place". The north of Tarn et Garonne is well known for it's wines and historic importance. The small town of Lauzerte dates from the middle ages and nearby Vailles is a striking fingerprint of past Roman rule in the region. If the east of the department looks familiar, it's because it was the setting for Charlotte Gray, the Second World War spy movie starring Cate Blanchett. The winding rivers and 16th-century villages clinging to rocky cliff edges certainly lend themselves to dramatic themes.

Montauban, in the middle of Tarn et Garonne, is home to around 55,000 people and has a relaxed, mellow feel unless it's a market day, and suddenly the streets are brimming with locals and the occasional tourist. It's known as the 'pinkest of pink towns', which has nothing to do with the local nightlife, but rather owing to the soft pink colour of the houses that catch early morning sunrise and diffuse the light to a warm glow. Further south in Tarn et Garonne, the pungent aroma of garlic might be found wafting through the air between July and December in the town of Beaumont-de-Lomage, as the famous garlic market opens. Standing in the town, with Gothic churches overlooking the Gimone River, full of splashing children, pedalos and boats for hire, you could almost believe you were in some long ago era your grandad told you about, when the water was still clean and people didn't lock their doors. All it needs is the rolling whine of an accordion in the background and you'd have to pinch yourself.

Tarn et Garonne is definitely coming into the 21st century, however, with the small, friendly towns and villages realising that tourism is a burgeoning industry. Yet it has approached the whole thing with caution, deciding to capitalise on its natural environment as opposed to changing the character of the main areas. Trekking tours and cycle routes are scattered around the countryside, with gîtes, farms and vineyards offering reasonable accommodation to get a flavour of the region.

Airports nearby to Tarn et Garonne include Toulouse and Agen, and with Ryanair now flying from Stansted to Rodez, in Aveyron, less than 90 minutes away, the increased connections with Britain have helped Tarn et Garonne leap into the consciousness of tourists and homebuyers alike. This is especially true of the department's many hilltop villages, like San Antonin or Caylus, only a short drive from the Aveyron department but available at a fraction of the price. "As a rule of thumb, the higher the altitude, the lower the prices", says Nick Stallwood of the French Property Shop, a British agency that focuses on the Midi-Pyrénées region, although the severe weather tends to deter most people. The weather in Tarn et Garonne does of course get cooler in the winter, but it is still relatively mild and temperatures below ten degrees Celsius are rare, so for much of the year expect warm, balmy days.  Because the weather is so amenable, there are  events in all seasons. Everything from big firework displays in August to monthly cultural fêtes, as well as the obvious wine festivals.

The absence of British buyers in Tarn et Garonne has another advantage: prices haven't been driven up, though Stallwood thinks this is likely to change. "It's a snowball effect. Friends and family tend to start buying in the same spot and gradually local English-speaking communities start to develop."

Typically, prices are dependent on the area and it's difficult to give an average price, as houses are so unique in the department that you could find yourself looking at a six-bedroom, 11th-century stone chateau in the wine region of Montpezat-de-Quercy for over a million euros (approximately £684,000) or a cottage outside Caylus for 145,000 euros (£99,000). In the main towns of Montauban and Moissac expect to pay slightly more, but the amount of land and space you get for your money anywhere in Tarn-et-Garonne is a pleasant surprise and could make excellent investment sense. A self-build house in the area could also be a big save as land is relatively cheap, starting at around 31,000 euros (£21,000) for a plot of 6,000 square metres. As Francis points out, "The area around Toulouse has become increasingly popular and prices have escalated over the past decade quite dramatically". Tarn et Garonne is, with a good degree of success, managing to balance delicately its old-world aura with new-world demands and prices. And it shows. There are still the quirky fairs and individual homes that look unlikely to succumb to resort complexes and the tacky marketing of its beautiful heritage and colourful people.

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Article first published in March 2006