Named after the river which flows through it, the peaceful and idyllic department of Aube abounds with lush forest, green fields, historic settlements – and champagne. Aube is in the south of the Champagne region, and is historically important for the production of wine. The capital is Troyes, only 150 kilometres from Paris and just five hours drive from Calais. The town holds its famous champagne fairs in the second week of June each year. While its town centre is shaped rather suggestively like a cork, Troyes today is not so much known for its wine as for being the biggest factory outlet centre in Europe.

Over the years, and despite a devastating fire in 1524 which led to rebuilding of the town in an often extravagant manner, Troyes has kept many relics from its colourful past.
The town is still a tight arrangement of sixteenth-century half-timbered wood and stone mansions with overhanging eaves and ironwork balconies on upper floors, with heavy studded oak doors. Many are decorated in bright pastels, arranged around dark allies and streets and squares with fountains.

The city is situated smack bang in the middle of Aube, and surrounded by the regions of Plaine Champenoise, Nogentais, Pays D'Othe, Chaourcois, Cote Des Bar and Les Grands Lacs. Other major towns include Les Riceys, Bar-su-Seine and Mussy-Sur Seine. The latter two towns are in the beautiful Valley of the Seine, an area of golden vineyards and beautiful medieval churches. Les Riceys in the Laignes Valley is one of the most important villages in Champagne for cultivating wine. It is known for the rare wine 'Rose des Richeys' which is said to have been Louis XIV's favourite. The village is in fact made up of three villages: Ricey-Bas, Ricey-Haut and Ricey-Haute-Rive. Residential areas are arranged in tight alleys lined with stone walls and winegrower's homes built in hard limestone. There is even room for three listed churches, two castles, nine chapels and – should you need them – eight outdoor washrooms.

The secluded Bar-su-Seine has a rich past in more ways than one. The market town of today was borne of a prosperous past, reflected by its buildings. The town is an entry point to the Cote des Bar and the Champagne tourist route. Besides Aube's countless fascinating villages – including Renoir's adopted home, Essoyes – it is the department's countryside that attracts visitors looking for some idyllic peace and quiet. The Forêt d'Orient is Aube's regional nature park. The area includes Les grands Lacs, 5,000 hectares of pristine lakes created to regulate the flow of the Aube river. The lakes are popular with windsurfers, sailors and plenty of other watersports. There is also golf, archery, riding and hot-air ballooning at hotels in the vicinity, or the option of just enjoying the views of the Côte des Bar area and its green hills and valleys. The area is perfect for those wanting to get away from it all, with wine trails and extensive forests on your doorstep.

The property picture
Aube is a place where you may find scenes reminiscent of childhood fairy tales lurking between the trees in the form of historic half-timbered houses, castles and mansions either solitary or as part of impossibly quaint villages. Romantic notions aside, Aube is the place to look if you are bargain-hunting. A three-bedroom house in Yvonne Aube, completely restored and on an acre and a half of land with barn, costs 274,000 euros. A huge three-story maison de maître in the Othe forest with eight bedrooms is only 280,000 euros. For that price, of course, you can expect to be doing some serious restoration work. Like so many properties in this area, it is half-timbered, with carved beams. The property has five bedrooms, two cellars, an old dairy, a workshop and new central heating. There are also several outbuildings and an old well.

You will find old mansions, derelict and restored castles for a big property project, all surrounded by fairytale forests. Or you can opt for a hard limestone house in the middle of a quaint French village, with just a narrow street out the front and views onto vineyards out the back. But be sure to take your time: life in Aube will slowly continue as it has done for centuries, so there is no need to rush.

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Article published in August 2007