Regional guides
The Vendée region of France is popular
Nautically orientated but with much more to offer than the famous yacht race, the Vendee boasts sweeping beaches and real Brit appeal.
If it weren't for the fact that the Vendée-Globe round-the-world yacht race finishes here every four years, the western-most department of the Pays-de-la-Loire could have passed the world by almost completely unnoticed. Even with the race, the Vendée caused little more than a ripple in the minds of British property buyers until recently, despite being sandwiched between two of the more popular French regions – Brittany to the north and Poitou-Charentes to the south. This was something of an oversight as the Vendée certainly boasts the type of beaches that Brits make a beeline for every summer, and the climate in which to make the best use of them. In fact, due to its own microclimate, the Vendée enjoys an average of 2,500 hours of sunshine a year. This, as Sandie Marshall, the Vendée representative of the Granny Network, happily explains, "means we have more days of sunshine than most of the rest of France".
This, of course, is beside the point unless Brits can get there easily. Thankfully, with the advent of low-cost airlines, this is now the case. These days, flights can be caught from several British airports to La Rochelle, just over the Vendée's southern border in Poitou-Charentes, or Nantes, to the north; these services complement the ferries that have long sailed into St Malo, a two-hour drive by car to the Vendée. With these transport links in place, the Vendée is beginning to be seen as an attractive destination for British homebuyers, just as it is for the round-the-world yachtsmen dreaming of finally being on dry land once again. "The Vendée is becoming ever more popular with Brits, either wanting a second home or, more and more frequently, a permanent move", Marshall confirms.
Water, water, everywhere
From St Denis du Payre in the south to Beavoir-de-Mer in the north, the Vendée's coast certainly features more than its fair share of glorious beaches. The focal point is Les Sables-d'Olonne, which was founded back in the day when 'sea bathing' first become popular. Today, the town is a rather chic affair, appropriate for the yachting set that descends on the town during the Vendee Globe. Unusually for a French seaside resort, though, Les Sables-d'Olonne is extensively developed, and is now big enough to cope with the regular influx of tourists in July and August that swells the town's population from 15,000 to 100,000.
But the Vendée's kilometre upon kilometre of coast ensures that if it's not an approximation of the Spanish costas you are after, then rest assured there's a wide, sandy beach, secluded cove or charming fishing port just waiting for you. Indeed, the more secluded your tastes, the more likely it is you'll be rubbing shoulders with the locals. Says Marshall, "It is the smaller and quieter coves that are popular with the Vendéen people, while from the quaint little ports a multitude of hardy fisherman set about their daily business". One of the little ports of note is Jard-sur-Mer, with its picturesque harbour, beaches, pine woods and clifftop walks.
Also of note is Ile-de-Yeu, a small island just an hour by boat off the north Vendée coast. In complete contrast to Sable-d'Olonne, time seems to have slowed to a crawl on Ile de Yeu, while the easiest way to get around to visit the many secluded coves is by bicycle. Back on the mainland, just a few kilometres inland you'll find market villages, with, as Marshall points out, "their own individual personalities and local gossip!"
The departmental capital, La Roche sur Yon, also started life as just such a gossipy market village, but Napoleon's decision two centuries ago to develop it for strategic reasons changed all that. This is why, as Marshall explains, "All the streets are straight for the ease and increased safety of Napoleon's soldiers on the march!" Now home to nearly 50,000 souls, La Roche sur Yon is reckoned to offer a high quality of life. Besides such inland towns, the Vendée's inland landscape is equally diverting. "Central Vendée sees gently undulating hills with majestic pine forests and villages perched on the banks of the many rivers, lakes and canals common in this area", says Marshall. "Southern Vendée is known as 'Venise Verte' (green Venice) for its canal waterways, and marshlands, where one can pass many a tranquil hour exploring the quiet countryside in tiny boats." And besides sailing, there's golf, fishing, cycling, good food and picturesque villages, such as Vouvant, Bazoges en Pareds and Mervent. Here, and indeed everywhere across the department, make an effort to talk to the locals in French and their innate friendliness will shine through. "The Vendéen people are the most friendly, polite and helpful you could wish for. Make an attempt to communicate (however badly!) in French and they will bend over backwards for you", Marshall claims. Perhaps this is just one reason why Brits who start out by buying holiday homes in the Vendée can often end up living there permanently.
Holiday homes, permanent plans
The Vendée's range of attractions means that, whatever the intentions of the buyer, they can find a home to suit them in the department. Says Adrian Bunn, who runs the Maison Direct office in the Vendée with his wife Jacqui, "All types of buyers can find what they want here: Investors tend to look toward the coastline, while potential residents are attracted to the inland scenery and the easy access from the UK for their friends." Bunn continues, "For those wanting a holiday home or wanting to start a tourist-related business such as gîtes or a B&B, the Vendée is ideal. It has lots to offer both holiday guests and those who want to live and work. We ourselves operate two gîtes which were fully booked from May through to October and are already fully booked for next July and August." But, in regional terms, such a ready market of renters doesn't come cheap. "Property in the The Vendée tends to be a little more expensive than inland departments such as the Deux Sevres, but is as popular, if not more popular, as most properties are within a one-hour drive of the coast and a 15-minute drive of a major town offering all services and facilities – essential for Brits who are looking for a full-time move."
So, what property will your money buy in the Vendée? Well, 50–60,000 euros will secure you a renovation project, a small cottage or village house requiring some minor works, while if you had at least three times this budget, you can expect to be able to purchase a three or four bedroom farmhouse-style property with land and outbuildings.
Inevitably, the increasing interest has pushed prices up. "Prices here have risen by approximately 14 per cent since May 2004 but seem now to be levelling off", Marshall comments, while Bunn believes that "such increases are expected to continue for some time yet". One of the driving forces behind the property market are the Brits who at first bought holiday homes then discovered they liked the lifestyle so much that they wanted to make a permanent move. "I have noticed this more and more", says Marshall. "Having tasted the way of life while staying here, these Brits – often but not exclusively retirees – have subsequently 'upped sticks' and moved here permanently!" This is exactly what happened to Adrian and Jacqui Bunn. Jacqui explains as follows: "Whenever we visited our holiday homes for a short break we seemed to be planning our next trip before we had even left to go back to the UK, so in 2004 we sold up and took the plunge to move full time."
So why did the Bunns settle on the Vendée? "Realising our needs would be different for a full-time move, we visited many areas of France, 'region hunting', to find our perfect spot. We travelled to the Languedoc (too dry and busy), Dordogne (too expensive), Aveyron (very pretty but remote), Normandy (too cold), and the Charente. In the end, we decided we had already found the best spot in France – the Vendée!" In which case, those of you tempted to buy a holiday home in the Vendée have been warned: once you get a taste for the department, holidays alone will no longer be enough.
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For further information:
Vendée Granny
Maison Direct Vendée
Article first published in January 2006


