Every year, more and more retirees are choosing to spurn the smoke and smogs of England in favour of a new life across the channel in France, and if recent ICM research is anything to go by this trend is set to continue. A report released by the company last year found that more British people planned on retiring to France than any other country – and with the prospect of better weather, better healthcare, in fact better practically everything, who can really blame them?

One reason that the ranks of retiring Brits are being gripped by a new Francophilia is clearly the development of cross-channel communications. Not so very long ago it took many hours and a substantial wad of cash to reach almost any part of France barring perhaps Calais and Dieppe. Now, with Eurostar trains leaving Waterloo every few minutes, budget airlines offering flights to all but the most obscure parts of the country and constant improvements being made to the TGV and motorway networks, retiring to France seems easier than it does to motor down to Cornwall or Devon.

For the newly retired, this ease-of access is an important factor. Whatever the draw of warmer climes and a potentially improved quality of life, most people are reluctant to emigrate at the expense of seeing their family and friends only once or twice a year. But France's proximity to home is far from being the country's only attraction. "It takes me only a few hours to reach my home in Estiville, Normandy," says Ro Horrocks, who retired permanently to France early last year. "I can't deny that it's wonderful to be have that easy access to my family and to feel that I'm so close in case of an emergency – but I would have chosen to live in France even if it was on the other side of the world."

For Ro, the appeal of retiring to France can be summed up as follows: "In England, we seem to have lost that sense of community which for me is essential to a good quality of life," she muses. "Witness the closing of village post-offices, the merging of small hospitals into gigantic faceless conglomerates and the spreading suburbs with no real centre – everything now takes place on a regional or national rather on a local level. "In France, that just isn't the case. The village I live in, near Rouen in Normandy, has a family-run charcuterie, a bakery and a market where local farmers come to sell their produce – not a supermarket or a high-street store in sight. If you have lived there for any amount of time then everybody knows who you are, and will chat to you while you shop and even invite you round to have dinner with them. When I lived in London, I never even spoke to my neighbours!"

Alistair Young, who has bought and renovated a house in Provence, looked at retiring to France for a similar reason. "The quality of life here can't be compared to Britain," he says. "The locals are friendly, the food is superb, and you don't have to worry about a high-rise development being built right on your doorstep. There is less pressure on the countryside in France because more people are happy to live in the towns. The English have this mentality which is that you've only made it if you've got your four-bedroom box and paddock in the country. People in France don't understand that – they enjoy urban life much more than we do and so rural communities haven't become littered with people who complain about the smell of cows and mud in the highstreet. In many ways, I imagine that country life in France is as it was in England fifty years ago.

Fortunately for those retiring to France today however, it is possible to enjoy rural life French-style while still retaining access to a very modern infrastructure. "The healthcare system in France is second to none," confirms Jillian Libovich, a retired Brit who divides her time between London and a second home near Nice. "For some reason that I haven't quite worked out, bed-space, long-waiting lists and second-rate care from overworked doctors doesn't seem to be an issue here. Last year I was suffering from heart problems and had to be hospitalised on two occasions. Both times I found the experience a breath of fresh air after the mess that is the NHS. "Public transport here is also far better organised and much cheaper than in Britain, and the Sapeurs Pompiers will do anything from clearing a nest of hornets out of your roof free of charge to putting out fires."

But, as Jillian hastens to add, her decision to buy a house in France wasn't motivated simply by the prospect of better healthcare and free pest control. It wasn't even the notoriously glorious southern weather that caused her to choose Nice. "My house here has been an excellent investment and retiring to France was the best decision we could have made," she explains. "My husband and I bought it as a renovation project, and we estimate that it would make around 20 per cent on the purchase price if we chose to sell it now. We're really pleased that our children and grand-children will get something extra through our will because we chose to buy in France."
 
A wide choice
Which area of France you might consider retiring to largely depends on how you envisage your new lifestyle. The south, in particular Provence and the Cote d'Azur, is consistently popular with British buyers - and for a very good reason. "The weather down here is fantastic," enthuses Jillian. "In the five years since we've owned a house here, I've only known it rain a handful of times. The area around Nice also has a delightfully varied landscape – it's possible to nip down to the Mediterranean for a quick dip in the morning, and then spend the afternoon hiking in the mountains."

For those with a taste for frivolity, the Cote d'Azur is thriving with chic cafes, elegant shops and sumptuous restaurants, while the proximity of Les Alpes Maritimes makes winter skiing a popular pastime with residents. All these attractions mean that it's difficult to find a four-bedroom property in Provence or along the Cote d'Azur for less than ….., but as Jillian point out 'the quality of life is certainly worth the price!"

If your heart is set on retiring in the south, but your budget won't stretch to Provence, then it is still possible to pick up a bargain by turning your sights to the west. The region of Languedoc-Roussillion was named 'best French investment' in a …. Survey last year, and has subsequently been tipped as the 'new Provence'. With a Mediterranean coastline, weather to rival even the Riviera and a typically French undulating rural landscape, it is largely unspoiled, and a wonderful place to while away your retirement.   

Of course, not everybody is attracted by the appeal of France's Mediterranean south. For some, the verdant landscape and medieval villages of Brittany and Normandy hold the greater draw. "We chose northern France because it is so picturesque," says Caroline Morris, who retired to Normandy with her husband Stuart in 2005. "We're both enthusiastic cyclists, and having all this beautiful countryside to peddle around is like a dream come true. We've taken to planning out a different route every weekend, stopping on the way to see the gorgeous villages that huddle in Normandy's lush valleys."

Although the weather in northern France is inevitably less predictable than in the south, the Bretagne beaches certainly rival those of the Riviera. Warm waves, heated by the Gulf Stream, lap up against undulating stretches of sandy beach, and yield some of the best sea food in the country. Those lucky enough to live in one of Brittany's seaside towns will find themselves dining daily on sole, monkfish, cod and crab caught only an hour before and obtainable at very reasonable prices.

Nor is it impossible to pick up a bargain in the regions of Brittany and Normandy. It is still not unusual to find restoration projects going for a song, and the increasing accessibility of northern France means that property in the area should be a sound investment. Although the majority of Brits retiring to France choose a rural or coastal
location, a few will still be attracted by the bright lights and byways of the big cities. Paris, centre of culture and romance, has appealed to Brits throughout history – and the 21st century is no exception. Those retiring to the capital can expect the best in healthcare, services and society, and will certainly never have the chance to feel bored.

If you're planning on retiring to a city in France, however, then remember that house prices are generally higher than in rural areas. Some parts of Paris, in particular, can even be on a level with London, and there are few opportunities to purchase restoration property. Traffic fumes are also a big problem in the large towns – an estimated 4,800 deaths occur every year in France as a direct result of increasing pollution.    

Decisions, decisions
Retiring to another country is always a huge step - even if, like France, that country is a member of the EU. Before you sell your English house and move your worldly belongings across the channel, therefore, it may be advisable to consider a trial period. "Before retiring to France, we had owned a second home here for some years," says Morris. "It gave us a chance to sample French life, make friends with the locals, learn some of the language and really make sure that we did want to live here permanently."

If your budget won't run to the luxury of a second home in France, there are other ways to test the water. Renting a holiday home is a good way to check out an area, as is doing a house swap with a French resident. A home exchange organisation like Homelink, or GTI Home Exchange will be able to put you in touch with like-minded people.

Once you've decided that retiring to France really is for you, the next step is to sort out the paperwork. As of 2003, a residence permit (carte de sejour) is no longer necessary for EU nationals staying longer than three months in France - but many Brits choose to apply for a carte de sejour voluntarily, as it acts as a useful personal ID and is still recognised by some areas of the country for official documentation and services. To apply, you will need a minimum of eight personal documents, including a passport, birth certificate, proof of residence and proof of entry. 

Before you leave for France, it is also necessary to obtain the reciprocal healthcare forms which will allow you access to medical care in France. These are the E121 if you are a pensioner, and E106 if you have retired before the state retirement age. The forms are distributed by the Department of Work and Pensions and should be registered at the Caisse Primaire d'Assurance Maladie (CPAM). Your local mairie will be able to provide you with CPAM contact details. Another important decision that all retirees need to make before moving to France is what type of accommodation to choose. The French tend to expect that the elderly will be cared for within the family unit, so retirement homes are less common than they are in the UK.  However, there are still several options open to those who are unable to live unassisted yet are still keen to make the move to France. Of these, the most popular among British retirees is the retirement village. This concept has only recently caught on in France, and the majority of communities are currently confined to the south. Retirement villages offer a number of advantages, including on-site healthcare, security, services and amenities. Facilities may include cleaning, pet-sitting, meal-delivery, physiotherapy and excursions, while many retirement villages also organise games and activities to promote a sense of community.
Les Seniorales own six retirement villages in France, all of which include swimming pools, a club house and organised activities. Villas start from approximately £105,000. Other options include the Village Seniors du Grand Logis near Saintes in Charente-Maritime and the Doyenne de la Risle near Rugles in Normandy.

Tax
If you choose to declare yourself a French resident, your worldwide income will be subject to taxation under the French system. In France there are seven tax rates as opposed to the three in the UK. The highest UK tax rate is currently 40 per cent as opposed to 49.8 per cent in France, but provided your annual income does not exceed 70,000 euros, you may find that you are better off under the French taxation system. France also offers extra tax deductions over the UK. For example, on top of the initial 20 per cent deducted for the first 11,900 euros earned, there is a further deduction of 10 per cent which is capped at 3,214 euros per household for pension income. A retired couple with an annual income of 40,000 euros can expect to pay 3,986 euros tax in the UK as opposed to 3,166 euros in France. This increases to 8,257 euros in England and 7,828 euros in France for a combined annual income of 60,000 euros, and goes up to 12,768 euros in England and 13,849 euros in France for an income of 80,000 euros. 
 
Pensions
If you are retiring permanently to France, then you will need to inform your DSS office a few weeks before departure. The DSS will set the necessary administrative arrangements in motion. Their Overseas Branch can be contacted at:
DSS Overseas Brach - EU Office
Longbenton
Newcastle upon Tyne
NE98 1YX
Tel: 0191 213 5000

If you are not liable to receive a French pension, then the UK will accept costs, including healthcare. Those receiving both a UK and French pensions, however, will be treated as French pensioners for healthcare purposes. Further information on pensions and pension transfer can be obtained from the DSS, especially leaflet SA29, "your special security, health care and pensions right in the European community."

Wills and inheritance tax
Everybody considering buying a property in France should seek legal advice before signing the acte de vente. Victoria Pybus, author of Retiring to France, explains: "The French system of inheritance tax is very different from the British one: you are not free to leave your assets to anyone you please. Blood relatives always come first, while your spouse or partner is treated almost as though they were strangers." You also need to bear in mind that, should you die in France, the French tax authorities will claim that your heirs should pay succession taxes on your worldwide assets. A lawyer with an understanding of both English and French tax law should be able to explain this system to you and advise on how best to arrange your inheritance.

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Article published on 16 April 2007